Portable power station: how to choose the right capacity (2026 guide)

In recent years, portable power stations have become the most popular piece of gear for power cuts. They’re essentially large batteries with AC outlets, USB ports and the ability to recharge from the mains, the car or solar panels. They’re silent, produce no fumes and can be used in an apartment.

The question isn’t whether you need one, it’s what size. And the answer depends on what you want to run and for how long. Try the calculator above.

The two numbers that matter

• Capacity, in Wh (watt-hours): how much energy it stores. It determines how long appliances run.
• Output power, in W (watts): how much power it can deliver at once. It determines which appliances you can start. A 2,000 W kettle won’t run on a 600 W station, however big the battery.

Watch the surge rating too: fridges and some pumps need two to three times their running power for a split second when they start.

What common appliances draw

Appliance	Typical draw	On a 1,000 Wh station
Phone charging	10-20 W	50-80 full charges
Wi-Fi router	8-15 W	55-100 hours
LED bulb	5-10 W	85-170 hours
Laptop	40-70 W	12-20 hours
40” LED TV	50-80 W	10-17 hours
Fridge-freezer (cycling)	40-80 W average	10-20 hours
Gas boiler (pump and controls)	80-150 W	5-10 hours of running
CPAP machine	30-60 W	14-28 hours
Electric kettle	1,800-2,200 W	Only if output allows; 6-7 boils of 1 liter
Electric heater	1,000-2,000 W	Under an hour: not a heating solution

The table uses the formula hours ≈ Wh × 0.85 ÷ W. The 0.85 factor accounts for inverter losses. Real figures vary by appliance; check the label or use a plug-in power meter.

What size you need

300 to 500 Wh: communications and light. The whole family’s phones, the router for a day, lanterns, radio. Easy to carry and good for camping.

1,000 to 1,500 Wh: the best choice for most families. Keeps the fridge going a few hours a day, the gas boiler for an evening, the router and lights for a whole day. With a solar panel and some care it can cover an outage of several days.

2,000 Wh or more: for a house, long outages, medical devices or electric cooking. They’re heavy (20 to 30 kg) and expensive, but some can be expanded with extra batteries.

LiFePO4 or NMC?

Most new stations use LiFePO4 (lithium iron phosphate) batteries. Compared with older NMC batteries they:

• last 3,000 to 6,000 charge cycles, versus 500 to 1,000;
• are more thermally stable and safer if overheated;
• are a little heavier for the same capacity.

For a station you want to keep for years, LiFePO4 is the right choice.

Other things to check

• Pure sine wave AC output: essential for boilers, fridges and sensitive electronics.
• UPS function: the station takes over automatically within milliseconds when the grid fails. Useful for a router, computer or boiler.
• Fast AC charging: new models recharge in 1 to 2 hours, important if you only get a few hours of power between outages.
• Solar input: the maximum wattage and voltage range. The higher, the faster you charge from panels.
• Warranty and local service.

How to use it in an outage

1. Prioritize: communications and light, then the fridge for a few hours a day, then the boiler in the evening.
2. Don’t keep the fridge plugged in continuously: 1 to 2 hours every 4 to 6 hours, door closed, holds the temperature.
3. Charge phones and power banks while the station is full, not when it’s nearly empty.
4. By day, put the solar panel in the sun and recharge.

Power station or generator?

In short: a power station is silent, safe indoors and needs no maintenance, but its energy is limited. A generator produces power as long as you have fuel, but it’s noisy, must stay outdoors and needs maintenance. The full comparison: home generators: how to choose and use one safely.